The Matton-Farnet brothers, Jean-Etienne and François, have managed their family estate since the 1990s, blending this wine from estate and purchased fruit. It feels substantive from the get-go, its core of dark flavor distant at first, slowly coming into focus along its structured length. With air, stemmy savor gives complexity to the cherry notes. The wine is airy and open, though, a faint sweetness making it all the more quaffable—that expansiveness brought my mind to a pâtisserie window, electric-red macerated berries perched atop puffy layers of pastry dough.
