93James Suckling
Old vines servicing full-weighted extract, impact and a welcome savoriness. Cherry liqueur, menthol, smoked meats, camphor and polished leather. The tannins, the latticework of sanity and structure, constrain a tip into excess. I like this wine. The old vine sourcing, formidable. Yet the oak is varnishy and sweet. Local cooperage? I am scoring this with the benefit of the doubt. Best after 2026.